Daks – BFC showspace – 9:00 am
An ode to the Fifties with a nautical theme, Daks drew an impressive crowd considering it’s 9:00 am start time. Opening the show with a delightfully crafted fashion film/animation depicting coastal resorts and long summer holidays, the tone was set.Rope print, retro halter neck dresses and Terrycloth playsuits in Dak’s house check summarized the glamour of far away shores while glamorous navy jumpsuits and luxurious onesies predicted balmy summer nights. Paying heed to the inevitably downcast British summer, raincoats of clear material were paired with micro-shorts, while thin slouchy tops were worn over calf high skirts ready to be whipped off at the first glimpse of sunshine.
Masha Ma – Vauxhall Fashion Scout- Freemason’s Hall
Subtle shades of white and grey, with the occasional burst of navy, divert attention towards the intricate detailing of the garments – gentle ruffles, precise knife pleats or subtle fringing. The use of extensive drapery highlights the pure sophistication and femininity of the collection as well as drawing attention to the unrivaled curves of the female form, (layers) of georgette satin and silk crepe are over lapped and bonded for a luxurious finish with real depth – you need to look beyond the surface to appreciate it fully.
Jasper Conran – BFC showspace –
Described as a ‘Palette cleanser’ the fresh white cottons and pale grey wool dresses acted as a diversion from the constant stream of candy-shop colours in other shows; with full or knee length hemlines and minimal fuss fastenings (be they wraps, ties or straps) the Conran woman was stylish but active. The best way to describe the collection is simple yet chic, refined yet individual and dare I say classical (it was in no way avant guarde, it was very wearable) baring of corse the clear and coloured perspex bags which made for a quirky touch. With the collection emitting a sports luxe feel (the toweling head-bands are the perfect give away), Conran gave the garments a sexy-twist with backless dresses and suggestive split in full length dresses.
Craig Lawrence, salon show – The Portico rooms – 15:15 pm
Taking inspiration from childhood ventures to the coastal town of Felixstowe, Craig Lawrence’s s/s 12 collection heralds, by his own admission, an era of ‘renewed luxuriance for London’s knitwear’.Stating the photographer Martin Parr and the British seaside as his muses, his collection is ‘rich in nostalgia and charm’
Choosing metallic rose gold yarn and cream shreds of material that he regularly knits with, Lawrence creates a luxe grunge look for spring/summer; Ivory ladder stitched body con dresses were spun from the sustainable stripped alcantara to floor skimming lengths while cocktail dresses with elegant fish tail features were finished with box pleats. Showcasing the collaboration with the leg-wear and tights expert Patternity, Ivory leggings with spike detailing took pride of place under a dusty mint green ribbed miniskirt, worn as the perfect partner to a barbed headdress. While the garments were finished with a loose-knit effect, very similar to crochet, twisted- wrap sweetie tops in varying degrees of sheerness added a sporty edge to the collection, as did the rose gold metallic off-the shoulder sweaters over knitted racer back vests.
Lako Bukia – Vauxhall fashion scout – Freemasons hall – 3:45
Pondering upon the concepts of femininity, asian flora and innovation Lako Bukia revealed a collection worthy of any Japanese court – Luxury fabrics, complicated cuts and enchanting floral prints. Combining a selection of complicated construction techniques in order to make the pieces extravagant and new and a palette of mauve, red and white vertical stripes and Japanese floral prints she strives to show off the shape of any woman in the best way.
Pleated skirts of crimson and white, with each pleat an opposing colour, fell just above the knee whilst feather-light chiffon handkerchief skirts, emblazoned with the signature floral print skimmed the floor at the model’s feet. Sheer tuxedo style shirts were worn with slick silk shorts or wide-legged trousers cut from black and white vertical striped material and kimono style dresses cut from slate grey silk rippled seductively with each stride leaving the reveling fashion folk in awe.